Adventure Cycling in the Zanskar – 2012  

Adventurers from India and around the world have long been captivated by the stark, breathtaking beauty of Ladakh’s landscape. In 2012, my friends and I decided to embark on an expedition that only a select group of daring cyclists undertake each year—a 515-kilometer cycling journey from Manali to Khardung La. At the time, Khardung La was disputedly known as the highest motorable road in the world, situated at a jaw-dropping 5,359 meters (17,582 feet) above sea level, via Leh. This treacherous route is known for its extreme inhospitability, lack of infrastructure, and challenging conditions, making self-sufficiency in terms of food, water, clothing, oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, and bike repairs a matter of life and death.

The Manali-Leh highway has a rich history, having been traversed for centuries by nomadic tribes guiding their yaks over high-altitude passes and plateaus. In the past five decades, it has also been frequented by sturdy army trucks, trading caravans, and the iconic Royal Enfield motorcycles. However, in recent years, this cold semi-arid Himalayan desert has been conquered by a more unconventional means of transportation—the humble mountain bike. Cyclists are drawn to this route by the promise of the ultimate cycling adventure and an indescribable sense of pure bliss.

The average elevation of the Leh-Manali highway stands at more than 4,000 meters (13,000 feet), with its highest point, Tanglang La (La meaning “pass” in Tibetan), reaching a staggering 5,328 meters (17,480 feet). The highway is flanked by imposing mountain ranges on both sides, showcasing stunning sand and rock formations that seem almost otherworldly. This lifeline route is essential for both the army and the civilian population, stretching from Rohtang to Leh, but it’s open to traffic for only a few months each year, typically from May to September. The remainder of the year, it’s buried beneath heavy snow, fed by numerous ice-cold streams originating from snow-capped mountains and glacial melts.

Cycling the Manali-Leh highway is not for the faint of heart. The journey presents a myriad of challenges that test the endurance and determination of even the most seasoned cyclists. Steep ascents and perilous descents are commonplace, often on nothing but rutted mud and stone roads. These unforgiving conditions contribute to the international rating of 9/10 in terms of difficulty among cycling enthusiasts.

The altitude itself poses a significant challenge. At such high elevations, the air becomes thin, making breathing difficult, and altitude sickness is a constant threat. This necessitates carrying oxygen cylinders, a lifeline for cyclists struggling to adapt to the thin air.

The lack of infrastructure along most of the route is another formidable obstacle. Cyclists must be entirely self-sufficient, carrying their own food, water, warm clothing, and medical supplies. The absence of repair shops means that any mechanical issue with the bike could spell disaster if not adequately prepared.

Despite these challenges, the rewards are immense. The sense of accomplishment that comes with conquering such a demanding route is unparalleled. The ever-changing landscapes, from lush valleys to barren plateaus, provide a visual feast for the eyes. The camaraderie among fellow cyclists, all united in their pursuit of adventure, fosters lasting friendships.

Beyond the physical challenges and natural wonders, the Manali-Leh expedition offers a unique cultural experience. Along the way, cyclists encounter remote villages and indigenous communities that have adapted to life in this harsh environment. The warmth and hospitality of the people are truly remarkable, considering the remoteness of their dwellings.

In Leh, the capital of Ladakh, cyclists have the opportunity to explore monasteries perched on hilltops, witness traditional Tibetan Buddhist ceremonies, and savor delicious local cuisine. The blend of Tibetan and Indian cultures in this region adds a layer of richness to the experience, as reflected in the vibrant markets and colorful festivals.

Cycling from Manali to Khardung La via Leh is an extraordinary journey that pushes adventurers to their limits. It’s a test of physical strength, mental resilience, and the ability to adapt to extreme conditions. The rewards, however, are immeasurable. The sense of achievement, the breathtaking landscapes, and the cultural encounters make it an unforgettable expedition.

As the Manali-Leh highway remains open for only a few months each year, this expedition is a race against time, nature, and one’s own limitations. It’s a chance to explore the untouched beauty of the Himalayan region, to bond with fellow adventurers, and to immerse oneself in the rich cultural tapestry of Ladakh.

For those seeking the ultimate cycling adventure, the Manali to Khardung La journey is an experience of a lifetime. It’s a reminder that, in the face of daunting challenges, humans have the capacity to conquer the highest peaks and find bliss in the most unexpected places.